So what's a person to do in a small bush village?... Why, get up early to catch two weeks straight of amazing sunrises, go 'eeling' for lampreys, and follow it up with a new addiction - fishing through the ice for Burbot! This fish has a TON of nicknames. Eelpout, cusk, cod, the list goes on and on, depending where you live. They are known locally as 'lush', though I do not know why. I suspect that that name was given because the folks hardy enough to sit around on the ice and wait for one to bite must be drinking in order to stay put. :D But that is pure speculation of course...
First, a pair of the sunrises:
This first one was taken over the original Russian Mission Orthodox church, built around the 1930's:
And here's another from the classroom - sorry this one was taken with the phone, so may not impress...
Sunrises like these have literally been occurring EVERY DAY for about two weeks now. Crazy.
Now, as I said...the lampreys, or as the locals say, eels. Each year around this time, the lampreys migrate back up the mighty Yukon to complete their spawning run. The folks around here find them to be a tasty treat and prepare them in various ways. This is an important Yupi'k subsistence activity, and has been for thousands of years. First a hole (or long trench, really) is cut in the ice. Then a long stick with rows of brad nails sticking out both leading edges is swept through the trench in fairly shallow water (shallow for the Yukon that is) until you feel the bump of 'eels' swimming by. Then with a swift sweeping upward motion you flip the eels that have been grabbed by the nails up and out onto the ice. Repeat until you have enough for dinner or enough for trapping or fishing bait (and maybe dinner too). :) It is a lot of fun, and the whole family can participate. Here is a short video I took about five years ago of the process back when we were in Pilot Station. In that year, the ice wasn't completely formed by the time the eels were arriving, thus we just fished off the edge of the ice instead:
As for this year, we had to fish for the eels through trenches, which is more normal, even in a year as warm as this one. Here is an evening shot of mom and Warren giving it a try:
Warren checking for eels ala reconnaissance:
Warren playing with an eel in the kitchen back at home...
A bonus shot offered due to our being out after eels and checking traps - a Russian Mission musher exercising his dogs. Put it in neutral and let 'em pull... :)
Warren on one of our outings. I'm glad he is only two and can't reach the throttle yet:
While you are out you may as well see what a gill net might bring. Here is a Yukon river smorgasbord of Sheefish, Pike, and Whitefish:
Whitefish need kisses too... :)
Now don't quit reading...it's time for the Burbot! As they still hadn't been checked off the species list for me, I made a vow this summer to finally change that this year - come whatever. Bought the gear, and this fall while we were moose hunting we gave it a try several times. No dice. But burbot are winter spawners, and for that they move into shallower water. Which, in a river the size and depth of the Yukon, is meaningful. Try to keep bait on the bottom in 60 feet of water in a river with the cfs flow we're dealing with here and you'll see what I mean. Anyway, the burbot seem to follow the eels, because they (burbot) are moving into shallower water to prepare for the spawn, and of course eating eels to fatten up for just that. Enter opportunity. We have been setting lines for them and checking every day. (This is quite legal in some areas of Alaska, where we live being one, provided you follow gear restrictions and check each 24 hours minimum.) Check regs here: :) ADFG Sport Fishing Regs
This is exciting stuff! Not only is it kind of like trapping, but there is a delicious morsel waiting for you when you connect! These fish are UGLY, but mmm mmm good. They aren't called the poor man's lobster for nothing... Anyway, after a few days of others trying and having some mixed success, we got some gear out as well. About the time the eels went past and the run of them subsided, things began heating up. Jason had a few lines out and hauled up one burbot, and a pike (which was released as per regulations require for bycatch) one afternoon, and then I walked down and pulled another one (about a three pounder) out that same evening - but it was on one of his lines, not ours. Here's a short one-minute vid of the moment of truth. Sorry, it was filmed by headlamp in the black of night - but it's not as blurry as the preview image below is:
Now, this still wasn't 'my' first burbot, because it wasn't my line. But, the fever was catching and it looked like the tide was turning on the action. The next day, we went back to check again after I got home from work. Sure enough, I got to pull one up on 'my' line this time. First burbot, baby! Here is a pic of the whole crew - minus Sarah, who as usual was with us and participating, but somehow always ends up taking the pics... Jason, Cooper, Warren, and me on the right. J is holding the little beast of a lota lota:
Tonight our line yielded a monster! (comparatively, anyway, to what we've gotten so far). He measured at 30 inches and a smidge, and looks to be carrying a belly full of eels:
Sarah and I with our 'trophy' :D Yeehaw, the fever is on!
Burbot don't put up much of a fight when hauling them up, but I sure am hooked. Just another great activity you can participate in here in bush Alaska, and enjoy life while doing it.
Here is a couple of shots that turned out cool, all taken while out after burbot. A nice morning on the Yukon:
And a little closer in on those mountaintops... Now you can see someone dragging their sled across the river, likely to check set lines or maybe traps. Thought it looked cool with the lack of snow on the ice, and the fog, almost seems like walking on water.
And a couple of shots of Warren on the same morning. One of our burbot lines there in the foreground.
Has been an incredible week or so. Nice weather and lots of fun action to be had. Living the dream out here in the bush :D
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